Looking back, take 3a (Rajgir, the first third of the very long day)

Picture: Domo Geshe Rinpoche on Massed Vultures Peak demonstrating the enlightened state: some others had better shots, so feel free to put up a better one.

In India, we were expected to behave in a way that is considered respectful by the culture, especially the Buddhist culture. Since we were clearly identifiable as Buddhist (even with Western faces), and there are many Buddhists around, we were to act the part. This meant that in public, we moved in a very traditional way. All the ordained wore robes every day. Rinpoche was (almost) always in the lead. The only exception to this was the times when there were beggars or sellers trying to access her from in front, and then 1-2 sangha members would walk in front of her to the right and left to run interference. Following immediately behind her were her 2 attendants side-by-side. It took a few days for our group to learn that you never step between Rinpoche and her attendants. The attendants during the pilgrimage rotated, so it was up to us to track who was attending on any given day. Immediately behind the attendants are the monastics (and monastic candidates), followed by the ngakphang (and ngakphang candidates), and then the lay practitioners. All dressed in modest, respectful clothing. All the women with long hair wore it up in the top knot of a yogic practitioner, and most wore long skirts. This respect discipline was also maintained at meals. Rinpoche, of course, always goes first. But in India, even lining up to eat was done in this order. If an ordained person walked in, they were shuttled to the front of the line, monastics before ngakphang. As a group, we learned this discipline fairly well and members reminded each other when necessary to help us maintain the discipline. Rinpoche commented that she appreciated the respect we showed by maintaining this order. It was clear to the locals from our discipline, that we are practitioners, and we were shown a lot of respect by them.

Early on the morning of Jan 13th we left Bodhgaya by bus for a very long day. As alluded to by others, it was longer than we bargained for. All our bags were in the luggage compartment - where it turned out they would stay for a day and a half. Mostly with us in the passenger section, we brought our chod drums and the jolas (monks & nuns bags) that we carried everything around in (our rare and precious toilet paper, wet wipes, rupees, etc). On the bus, Rinpoche launched into an impromptu teaching in response to questions (presumably by one or both of her attendants who were sitting hearby). Fortunately, Jugney brought a hand-held recording device rather than the marantz, and it was whipped out, so at least part of the teaching is recorded. Menma has posted some very nice notes covering some of the main points.

What follows is my recollection of part of the teaching that Rinpoche gave us on the bus on the way to Rajgir. If there are errors in memory or interpretation, they are mine. At the time Lord Buddha Shakyamuni attained full enlightenment, he apparently thought it (the method he used) could not be taught to others. When Lord Buddha went to Sarnath, located his 5 mendicant companions and sat on the grass, god-realm beings (not enlightened, but very long-lived and powerful from a human perspective) handed him a 1000-spoked golden wheel and strongly requested that he teach (hence we get the expression,"turning the wheel of dharma" The dharma is the teachings, and to turn the wheel is to teach the path to enlightenment). Having been requested, he taught from his own experience, thinking perhaps it would benefit others to replicate what he had done. This is the beginning of Theravada Buddhism.

note: Even today, Buddhist teachers and lamas tend to only teach if they have been requested. So, as their students, we request frequently, and our specific topics of interest have great influence on what teachings we receive. Many of Rinpoche's students in the Milwaukee area are in the healing professions, so we get a lot of teachings on healing, because we request them all the time.

Once Lord Buddha began teaching, many people would come to him with their problems. As the Buddha gave advice, and saw the positive results, the "remedies" developed. Eventually, he realized that the path could be taught. As this process continued and increased, the seeds of Mahayana Buddhism were planted and nurtured. Lord Buddha himself became a remedy.

Several hours later, we arrived at Rajgir (Massed Vultures Peak). The peak gets its name from a rock formation that, from one angle, looks like a mass of vultures roosting together. It was a favorite place for Lord Buddha Shakyamuni and many of his followers to stay, meditate and have teachings. It is here that the Heart Sutra, one of the most precious teachings of Mahayana Buddhism, was given. The teaching is so important, that it is considered the second turning of the wheel of dharma, and is essentially the birth of Mahayana Buddhism. N. Pema posted a wonderful translation of the Heart Sutra, so I refer you to that posting. If you have no significant exposure to Buddhist thought, I don't guarantee you will understand it. You might want to get a commentary or two for that purpose. (Heck, even if you do have significant exposure to Buddhist thought, you will probably struggle with the teaching.)

On a neighboring peak, across from Massed Vultures Peak, is a beautiful temple built by Japanese Buddhists. The Zen Buddhists from Japan are of the Mahayana tradition, by the way (as are Tibetan Buddhists.) Rajgir is rich in history and important to Buddhists, Jains and Hindus. More information on Rajgir can be had here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rajgir

We arrived, and it was only a short wait until the aerial ropeway would open and take us up to the peak of the Japanese temple. The ropeway seats are similar to those of a ski lift, but only hold one person each. They do have a restraining bar across each seat for safety. For those who had not been on a ski lift before - or were afraid of heights - it would be a bit of a challenge - and each person had to ride alone. We were lined up for the tram in our tradition formation. This afforded me a good position from which to be near Rinpoche as she took her first lift ride. She was delighted by the experience and it delighted us to observe her. One attendant and Jugney were sent before Rinpoche in case they needed to assist her to get off the tram. Pema followed her and I followed Pema. The ride over the hills was wonderful! Quiet! Scenic! And it was the most trash-free area I had seen in India thus far. Pema had her camera hanging out the back of her tram so I suspect she has a picture of me riding in my little one-seater, but I didn't get around to asking her if that was what she was doing.

The Japanese Temple and stupa at the top is absolutely beautiful. To the side of the stupa, from the temple, is the constant and rhythmic sound of a deep drum. We circumnambulated the temple, which is white. On each of the four sides is a large, gold image of one of the major events of the life of Lord Buddha. They include his birth, enlightenment, teaching and death. Many pictures were taken and I hope some are posted here. After circumnambulating the stupa, we entered the Japanese temple and joined Rinpoche in bowing before the images of Buddha to the rhythm of the drum, which is traditional in the Japanese Buddhist tradition. The drum beater was so pleased by our respect that he offered holy pills to Rinpoche (Changchub actually received them on behalf of Rinpoche).

Then we took a path over to Massed Vultures Peak. First you go down from one peak to meet the path that goes up the other peak. The 'path' was paved - if you consider loose stones with steps at uneven intervals and pitched rather than flat to be a paved path. It was treacherous and difficult. We had to watch each step. Apparently the rainy season really wreaks havoc on the path and it does not seem to be maintained. Rinpoche commented that one advantage of pilgrimage was that it forced you to stay grounded. You must watch where you step, and so you cannot afford to become a space cadet - all airy fairy. Once we met the path up, we found it easier going. True enough, we were now climbing and working hard at it, but the paving was smooth. The steps were still a bit uneven, but it was in much better shape. Below Vultures Peak are a couple of caves. They are believed to be sites where Lord Buddha Shakyamuni spent a great deal of time in meditation. There is a altar in each cave and pilgrims stop and do prayers and prostrations there.

At one of the caves, Rinpoche stopped to rest, and Changchub told a small group of Tibetans that this is Domo Geshe Rinpoche. The title "Rinpoche" seems to have a strong effect on Tibetans. They approached one by one, bowing their heads down in the traditional request for a blessing. Again, I was close enough to observe the interaction. As each would bend down, Rinpoche would touch him or her on the top of the head at the crown with the knuckle of a bent finger and in that time she appeared to be checking that one out energetically, and then providing some energetic assistance depending on what she found. In response to one older woman, Rinpoche was very pleased and said to her several times "Om Mani Pema Hum". The woman was delighted at Rinpoche's response and responded back. My interpretation was that Rinpoche determined that the woman had said many 'manis' in her life with great devotion which had had a greatly beneficial effect on her spiritual development, and Rinpoche was giving her very positive and supportive acknowledgement of her great efforts. With a younger woman, Rinpoche said something like, "oh, no" and she did some work on that one. Again, I did not ask what, but only observed. When a high level lama gives a 'blessing', it is more than just a rote prayer. The recipient actually gets an energetic/spiritual check up, and some help - depending on what is indicated. It is sort of like the "nursing process." We do an assessment, and then we plan interventions based on that assessment. Rinpoche does an assessment, and then plans her interventions based on her assessment. Maybe we can call it the "guru process?"

We continued to the top of Massed Vultures Peak where there is a shrine, and a view out over the valley that is awe-inspiring - even if much of the valley below is shrouded in smog. Many people were gathered there, and we went to an area over to the side, and together we read aloud the prajnaparamita. (Again, I refer you to N. Pema's posting of the Heart sutra.) After most of the others had left, we circumnambulated the shrine. Rinpoche did a precious demonstration of the buddhas free from suffering. Several people took a picture of it and I hope one of them posts it here. I think we all want copies!

The walk down from Vultures Peak was much easier than the walk up. After reaching our bus, we headed out for another hour or so's drive to the ruins of Nalanda University.

The very long Day....to be continued......

may there be a rain of dharma