Tibet still calls

I hear the song in my heart.

Heading to Tibet

The blog is now open for posting by those travelling to Tibet in May.

Picture of the Burning Ghats

As far as I can tell, this pcture does not have any of the fires in it, so I felt it was apropriate for the Web.

Fellow Pilgrim in Varanasi

Mind of satisfaction

If you haven't figured it out from this blog yet, anyone can have the qualities of a pilgrim without being a pilgrim on the outside. But while we have all been softening our gaze at personality and identity, we have not been looking strongly at the qualities of a pilgrim. And why should we?

As Menma said, "We were practitioners, we were pilgrims, and we simply were..."

But now in reflection, it seems like a good time to take note of these qualities. So here I am thinking about the mind of satisfaction.

While we were in India, lots of unexpected and difficult things happened. People got very sick with colds, flu, and sick tummies. Flights were cancelled with dangers of international flights being missed. Buses had to travel long periods over potentially dangerous road. Were were stuck in cities with no hotel reservations. And on and on. But you rarely heard about them in this blog.

Why?

Because they were never really an issue at all. In the scheme of things, they barely mattered. The only reason they are worth mentioning at all is that they weren't worth mentioning.

Why?

Because the mind of satisfaction was unwavering in the entire group.

Sure we talk about salads and hot showers. But not because we were dissatisfied with our accommodations. We talk about them because we appreciate the convenience that they afford in caring for our bodies so that we can spend more time thinking about practice. I do appreciate not having to watch all my food to make sure that I am avoiding unsafe foods because this energy can be put to practice. I do appreciate hot water all the time so that I do not have to spend extra time planning how I will stay warm in order to avoid a cold. But I was just as satisfied in India.

And because of that, things are much simpler. Satisfied with what you have, delighted with the unexpected. Life is less complicated. Energy is freed up for more important things. ANd the craving, gnawing itch that something must be had is forgotten, nullified, completely gone. Abandoned, totally replaced.

MIND OF SATISFACTION.

What a wonderful thing. And its totally contagious. Try it sometime.

Thinking about Vishwanath Temple

I wrote this to a colleague today, who is is mildly of the Hindu faith.....

From my perspective, the living presence of wisdom has arisen in most of the great world religions including Hinduism. The fact that the Hindu religion at one time did support -- and may still support -- an authentic inner spiritual process is what causes me to have such a profound respect for the religion.

I have no idea if it still exists in this world as it was originally meant to be, but that is not necessary for me to know since I am not a practitioner. On the other hand, I know almost nothing about outer expression of Hindu religion -- its rules and rituals for instance. But even if it has degenerated, no amount of degeneration can rob authentic inner Hinduism of its ability to facilitate growth, and that is where my respect lies. This is what made it such a great honor to be in the temple in Varnassi.

And then after I wrote the above, I realized that there is somethign that I want to say to a few of my freinds....

If you have been wounded in the past by the corrupt or degenerated expression of a form of outer religion, please do not think that the authentic inner practice should be blamed. I assure you that the authentic inner spritutal practice exists, facilitated by inner wisdom and teaching. And when you are ready to meet it, I would be happy to help introduce you

[I am including below a description of the Golden Temple in Varanasi]

Approached through a maze of narrow alleys and the Vishwanatha Gali (or Lane), the temple complex of Vishwanatha or Visheshwara, the "Lord of All", is popularly known as the Golden Temple, due to the massive gold plating on its shikhara (spire). Inside the compound - which is hidden behind a wall, and entered through an unassuming doorway - is one of India's most important shivalingams, made of smooth black stone and seated in a solid silver plinth, as well as shrines to the wrathful protectors Mahakala and Dandapani, and the lingam of Avimukteshvara, the Lord of the Unforsaken, which predates Vishwanatha and once held much greater significance. The current temple was built in 1777 by Queen Ahalya Bai Holkar of Indore, and is closed to non-Hindus, who have to make do with glimpses from adjacent buildings.

Tibetan Doctor

We met the loveliest Tibetan doctor in Manjukatilla. Or however you spell it. His name is Dr. Nyima Tsering Lhunkhang (e-mail dor_la@yahoo.com). I will have to tell the story later, but suffice it to say he appeared as the most gentle and caring doctor I have ever met.

Shiny place

I was just staring at a shiny marble-like bathroom counter, huge round sink and shiny chrome faucet here in the bathroom at Schiphol Airport. When I turned the water on using the swivel handle -- a nice, long, elegant swivel handle, perfectly clean, a luxurious stream of instant hot water -- I thought to myself, "Things are no longer the same."

Perhaps only the people who have been through something similar can understand, but there appears to me no greater contrast than the dirtiest bathrooms in India and the cleanest ones here in Schiphol.

Things have changed again, and so have I.

Note: I'd be just as happy in either bathroom. This entry is about having the soft gaze that observes change from a point of satisfaction. And a kind of child-like delight and surprise when things become even more beautiful.

And you can find really clean dust free bathrooms in India, but that would not describe were we have been -- roadside tea houses on twelve-hour rides through remote mountain areas for instance.

I feel light and fluffy

That's all, just wanted to share.

See you all soon.

Rupees and vendors and sharks, OH MY!!!!!

Apparently now that several of the practitioners look slightly more like tourists and less like pilgims (sans topknot, meditation skirt and mala in hand) the vendors have turned slightly shark-like in energy. Goes to show that pilgrims have more than one kind of special protection.

Shabalek and momos

I've almost had my fill of Shabalek and fried momos -- the food we order to take with us on the long drives. Fried pockets stuffed with vegetables or mutton. You can't get anything like it in the states, unless you know someone Tibetan. Yum. However, others are now weary of this food and looking forward to green salads.

And the best Thukpa (long noodle soup) and Thenthuk (pulled noodles)was to be had in Tsok Pema. So in the transition we have mostly turned to Indian or Nepali food. Yesterday included french fries and Pepsi. Today was fried pepper beef and curries.

I'll hold out for one more special meal tomorrow for Rinpoche's Tibetan birthday. We are going to The Imperial Hotel for lunch -- the fanciest place in town. Lunch is likely to be a whopping 600 rupees (we paid 50 for soup, bread and tea for two the other day).

I will miss this place, but with the lack of Tso Pema Thukpa, my tummy is ready for home. It will be travelling with many like minded friends tomorrow night.

Mandarava Cave, on the kora path

We went to Mandarava's cave on the kora path around Tso Pema today (there is more than one, this one is on the downside of the mountain). Enclosed is an aerial view of the lake, the cave is near the monastery.

At some point while Mandarava was meditating there in the cave, the king (her father) came with many guards to drag her away. Her bed was at the foot of a rock surface, and as they tried to drag her away she grabbed the surface of the rock. Her determination was so great that her hand melted the rock away and left hand prints where she grabbed on. Unlike other holy sites, one may place their hand respectfully in the same place where her hand touched thousands of years ago -- finger holes bored deeply into the rock surface, head print between both hand prints where she pressed her head to the rock as she was clinging dearly to her meditation cave.

His Holiness the Dalai Lama, Dharamsala

The first time I saw the Dalai Lama teach, it was in south India in Bylakuppe for the opening of the new Sera Me Temple. On the last day, I had my camera with me (a long story, since they were not allowed) and I was able to take a picture of him. I wrote a post about it in the original blog. It said,

"I took a picture of the Dalai Lama today. He smiled at me."

Many people wrote and asked me to further explain, but even though I tried, it was clear that the only way to come close to understanding or expressing that experience was to actually have the Dalai Lama smile at them.

So it was an interesting experience to be in the temple at Dharamsala and feel the energy there. And what comes is,

I went to the temple today. Peace and compassion smiled at me

Here's to the best kind of solace.

Tso Pema by any name would be just as sweet

Tso Pema is so alive. It is alive in a way that is very different than Bodhgaya. I am not sure I can describe it but on first pass it seems that there is a lot less tourist energy here, so the alive feeling of being near the lake permeates the entire town. Most people here are locals or lifelong meditators on retreat. They are quiet energetically and for the most part have blessed peaceful demeanors.

There is a very quite undertone of agenda in the vendors, since it is off season and every rupee will help. But it is always a gentle request, and usually in the form of someone handing one or more of us a card (with both hands, the most respect)with name and business. There is not energetic drag or pull at us to come to their shop. It is so sweet and refreshing.

Living in the monastery is another kind of coming home for all of us, even the lay practitioners. While the accommodations are modest, the energy is amazing. And we happen to have a little balcony overlooking the lake where I meditate.

If you come here, you have to stop under the thousands of prayer flags at the far end of the lake and listen to their gentle whisper as they wave prayers onto the wind in every direction, bright colors glinting in the sun, a rainbow of prayers.

Feel connected to the ground here, there is more energy and purer energy than I have felt elsewhere. Yes, it was in many of the holy places, but here I feel it the strongest. It is like lotus petals falling softly from the sky and rainbows everywhere. It is a million times over the double rainbow light at summer retreat the first year at Metok's farm. It is the lightest bubbles, like when Metok laughs her alive kind of laugh.

And so it seems that Tso Pema has also reminded me of Metok, who is wise enough to know that Tso Pema exists inside us as well as outside, and light enough to have demonstrated its qualities long before we came here. May you be fully free dear, and may you have all the good qualities that are alive in this holy place.

Pilgrims by strict order

I answered Gyalmo separately, but given some of the e-mails we received recently, I thought I would add this post. I know you all have strong thoughts of remaining on pilgrimage, but please remember that the people in India are still on very strict Pilgrimage per Rinpoche.

If you are sending us e-mails or requests, it would be helpful to those here if you keep the tone of one in Pilgrimage. We have been told there will be no shopping here, so please recognize it will be hard for us to respond to shopping requests.

Truly Pilgrims in America

You have truly become a lifelong pilgrim when you know where home is -- on the inside. Love to the pilgrims everywhere. May you land in your new place like the first rays of light, soft and warm and gentle.

Heart Sutra on Vulture's Peak

Here is one translation of the Heart Sutra

Om Homage to the Perfection of Wisdom the Lovely, the Holy !

Avalokita, the Holy Lord and Bodhisattva, was moving in the deep course of the Wisdom which has gone beyond.

He looked down from on high, He beheld but five heaps, and He saw that in their own-being they were empty.

Here, O Sariputra, form is emptiness and the very emptiness is form; emptiness does not differ from form, form does not differ from emptiness, whatever is emptiness, that is form, the same is true of feelings, perceptions, impulses, and consciousness.

Here, O Sariputra, all dharmas are marked with emptiness; they are not produced or stopped, not defiled or immaculate, not deficient or complete.

Therefore, O Sariputra, in emptiness there is no form nor feeling, nor perception, nor impulse, nor consciousness; No eye, ear, nose, tongue, body, mind ; No forms, sounds, smells, tastes, touchables or objects of mind ; No sight-organ element, and so forth, until we come to :

No mind-consciousness element ; There is no ignorance, no extinction of ignorance, and so forth, until we come to : There is no decay and death, no extinction of decay and death. There is no suffering, no origination, no stopping, no path.

There is no cognition, no attainment and no non-attainment.

Therefore, O Sariputra, it is because of his non-attainmentness that a Bodhisattva, through having relied on the Perfection of Wisdom, dwells without thought-coverings. In the absence of thought-coverings he has not been made to tremble, he has overcome what can upset, and in the end he attains to Nirvana.

All those who appear as Buddhas in the three periods of time fully awake to the utmost, right and perfect Enlightenment because they have relied on the Perfection of Wisdom.

Therefore one should know the prajnaparamita as the great spell, the spell of great knowledge, the utmost spell, the unequalled spell, allayer of all suffering, in truth -- for what could go wrong ? By the prajnaparamita has this spell been delivered. It runs like this :

gate gate paragate parasamgate bodhi svaha.

(Gone, gone, gone beyond, gone altogether beyond, O what an awakening, all-hail ! -- )

This completes the Heart of perfect Wisdom.

Outer charnal ground - Mahakala Cave

Deserted dusty road and we pass toiling laborers using rudimentary tools to chisel rock out of the quarry -- grueling backbreaking work for even the most agile. Out of the bus and into a ring of fiery heat, the sun is pounding down on us. The denizens of this barren place screaming and begging for even a rupee.

Not starving, but many appearing lame physically and impoverished spiritually. Feet connected to a holy place, energy of recognition rising in my belly we begin the long climb in the blazing sun. Dust coating our shoes, our robes, settling on our faces and in our throats.

Two guards walking with us fending off the beggars who are trying to grab at us. Light headed from the walk as we reached the top, crouching in a darkened cave, only a few butter lamps burning, chanting prayers for the destruction of obstacles.

Impermanence rampant, the taste of suffering in my mouth. Prayers complete, heading down the path. Beggars lined up as far as we could see -- hundreds and hundreds of rupee coins tossed one per beggar into the ragged skirt or beaten cup. Except the blind or unwell, where showers of blessed coins landed on each blanket.

Heruka Chakrasamvara. Charnel Ground. Mahakala Cave. The reason we are here. Fearlessness of the Bodhisattva in the face of suffering. In the face of hellish conditions. In the face of the blazing heat and fire of our own self cherishing.

Fearlessness and compassion that shields us from all suffering so that we may help others.

This is my outer experience of the charnel ground.

Abandon dirt, abandon stain

I forgot my mala at the hotel today. Maybe it was because I had the strap of my meditation cushion in my hand.

So I bought a new one. It was completely encrusted with dirt. So I pulled out a wet wipe and began to clean it. It was really dirty. Filthy. Hard to clean.

Maybe that dirt wasn't the dirt of India, maybe it was the dirt of attatchment and aversion. Maybe it was not their dirt, maybe it was my dirt. Maybe it was the dirt of my delusions.

Whooooahhhhh!

Here we goooooooooooo...........